Today, we went to Isshinji(Temple) in Kita-Shinagawa to receive a traditional treatment known as Hōroku-kyū (焙烙灸).

Kita-Shinagawa still preserves part of its history as one of the post towns established along the Tōkaidō (東海道), one of the major highways developed during the Edo period.
The Tōkaidō starts at Nihonbashi in Tokyo and stretches all the way to Kyoto, passing through 53 official post stations.
Kita-Shinagawa flourished as the very first post town along this route.
Even today, the town retains the atmosphere of an old traveler’s stop, with guesthouses and inns welcoming travelers from all around the world.

At Isshinji in Shinagawa-juku, you can experience Hōroku-kyū on the 28th of every month.

The origins of Hōroku-kyū are debated, but one popular story dates back to the Sengoku period(1467-1590).
It is said that a warlord, suffering from summer fatigue, placed a burning moxa ball on his Kabuto(helmet) and miraculously recovered.
Inspired by this, people began placing an unglazed clay plate called a hōroku on their heads, burning a large mound of moxa (mugwort) on top.
This practice spread among the common people as a means to recover from or prevent headaches, summer fatigue, senility, and even strokes.

In ancient Japan, medical care was primarily reserved for the imperial family and the nobility.
However, Buddhist monks, who studied the teachings of the Buddha, are said to have traveled around teaching herbal medicine and moxibustion to the common people as acts of compassion.

One such figure was Kūkai (空海 774-835), a renowned monk who is especially known for spreading the practice of moxibustion.
Thanks to efforts like his, certain temples across Japan have preserved the tradition of performing moxibustion ceremonies around the time of the summer solstice.
Hōroku-kyū is one such traditional moxibustion ritual still practiced today.

However, over time, the number of temples that perform Hōroku-kyū has dwindled.
Moreover, because it is typically held during limited periods such as the summer solstice or the “Day of the Ox” (Doyō no Ushi no Hi), opportunities to experience it are quite restricted.

In this sense, it is especially precious that Isshinji in Kita-Shinagawa offers Hōroku-kyū regularly on the 28th of every month.
The temple is within walking distance from Shinagawa Station, and the surrounding area is full of vibrant backpacker lodges and restaurants—a wonderful neighborhood to explore.

Right now, it happens to be the Spring Doyō period, making it a perfect time for my wife and me to rebalance our health.

Doyō (土用) is a concept based on the Five Element Theory (五行論 Gogyo-ron) and refers to an 18-day transitional period before the beginning of each of the four seasons (Risshun, Rikka, Risshū, Rittō).
Although there are four Doyō periods each year, the summer Doyō is considered to have the strongest energetic influence on people and the natural world, which is why the tradition of focusing on health during the summer is the most widespread.
Nevertheless, there are also Doyō periods in spring, autumn, and winter, each significant in its own way.

If you happen to be staying in Tokyo around that time, I highly recommend experiencing Hōroku-kyū to heal your travel fatigue before continuing your journey.